La Noisette, London

"One month and one day" was the reply when we asked the receptionist how long La Noisette had been open. My expectation was that the entire establishment should be on top form - making its mark on Sloane Street. We were taken to the bar on the 2nd floor for a pre-dinner drink. We were taken a back by the virtual emptiness of the bar - hmm - not a good sign on a Friday evening at 7PM.

Our drinks were accompanied by bar snacks - which comprised by some green olives (OK), long flat bread sticks and a ricotta-based dip. The menu made an interesting read. Apart from the "starters" and "main courses", it offered a "Summer Favourites" which comprised of seven dishes - all looked quite light and healthy, and an "Inspirational Menu". My guest and I were both drawn to this latter choice, which according to the waitress, is a series of dishes created by the chef on the fly. We were in an adventurous mood - so we both opted for this alluring choice.

Either we had high expectations, or "inspiration" had turned "capricious". Some of the dishes worked - like the artichoke lasagna, but others were disastrous - Beef Wellington (how not adventurous is that) with slightly burnt pastry on top!

What was enjoyable? The tables are well spaced and the dishes are well paced. The lightly poached langoustine floating on a fluffy cream concoction was nice.

What was not enjoyable? The "Inspirational Menu" was a load of pretention - either tell the dinners where the inspiration had come from and let the dishes reflect those inspirations, or stick to a well designed menu. Don't experiment on the dinners. Truly uninspirational Petits Fours. Plus, the bread plate was wasted - there was only one kind of bread (boring
brown) and one kind of butter (semi-salted with salt flakes on top).

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