Nadaman and Kenjo for Kaiseki and Chirashi, Hong Kong

In a feature article in this weekend's FT, Gwen Robinson discussed the ins out outs of Kaiseki (懐石料理) - a branch of Japanese cuisine - and its lack of visibility in London and continental Europe. Well, while I was in Hong Kong in January, I revisited Nadaman and had a delightful Kaiseki dinner with my family.

The modern and stylish decoration accurately portrays its locale (Hong Kong, though it could equally be Tokyo or Osaka). Their Kaiseki dinner consisted of dishes that were varied, seasonal and delightful - all expertly executed. Some of the dishes are arranged as if for a still life painting. And it did take more than two hours to complete the courses.

However, if one was pressed for time yet wanting to have one's eyes and palate tickled, then a classic chirashi dish will also do the trick. One of my favourite Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong is Kenjo 見城 (which is on the Kowloon side). It 's a tiny restaurant with just four tables plus a sushi bar. Every ingredient is fresh and all the dishes are lovingly created. Yet there is no fuss, no pomp. The last time I was there, I simply ordered a chirashi sushi lunch (see below) and was pleasantly surprised by the presentation as well as the variety of sushi and vegetables layered onto such a small box.

Well, it was not so small as I felt very well fed afterwards.

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