Top notch canto nosh in Hong Kong

Where to find the best Cantonese food in Hong Kong? Do you mean the best ingredients? The best known? The best crowd? It appears that Fook Lam Moon (福臨門) is one that most would agree on. It's tucked away in a non-descript building in Wai Chai - you need to know where you are going. Lots of people are chauffeur driven there. Of course, if you are a mere mortal, valet parking is at your service. The busy-body ground floor receptionists will whisk you away into the lift lobby where you will be taken to one of two floors for your table (yes, booking is advisable). The decor is pleasant (considering it's a windowless environment0, and there is a certain gentility among the guests - many of whom are regulars. You'll also see a fair amount of hob-nobbing - but hay this is Hong Kong.

The dimsims at lunch are delectable and evening dishes are made with the finest ingredients - you name it, they've got it. Advice is naturally at hand on menu composition. The taste, textures and presentation of everything is well balanced without too much fuss. Everything is good. The service is efficient almost to a fault.

If the "efficient service to a fault" puts you off, then Spring Moon (嘉麟樓) at the Peninsula Hotel provides a good alternative on Kowloon side. Its spacious surrounding and generous tables provide a more relaxed and luxurious ambiance. The Cantonese menu offers most of the seasonal and classical dishes. My sharks-fin dumpling in a bowl of supreme stock was pipping hot with all the right ingredients concocting a delicious and complex mouthful.

Its tea counter (above) forms the centre point of the restaurant. If you are a tea connoisseur, there is a reasonable choice of teas from various regions in China - all served individually at the correct water temperature.

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