Grand Imperial - too grand for Victoria?

There isn't a shortage of Chinese restaurants in London. And the likes of Hakkasan and Royal China have set the bar relatively high at the upper end of this crowded market. Though with an increasing number of Chinese expats and well-heeled tourists in London, there may be room for more.
Grand Imperial is situated in a hotel attached to Victoria Station. The decor is contemporary Chinese. There were several large fish tanks - one couldn't be sure whether they are for displaying tropical fish, or storing live stock to be eaten.

The menu had a good selection of traditional and modern dishes. We tried the thin slices of braised beef shin (cold starter dish) which was tasty. The soup of the day (pork with Chinese medicinal roots) was piping hot though probably not to Western taste. The pan fried egg, sprouts and vegetarian shark's fins was fragrant (see below). The shredded chicken with jelly fish and salty ginger dressing was ok. The roast Peking duck at the next table looked good.

The staff were attentive (though when we went the restaurant was less than half empty) and crockery was fine. But somehow Grand Imperial lacked a certain something. The fish tank was too imposing and out of place. The high ceiling was crying out for a buzz from the bar, which was quiet. The price point was set too high to attract passing traffic from Victoria. The food was not bad, but somehow wasn't sophisticated enough to marry up with the decor. It will be sometime before Grand Imperial works out its clientele and positioning in the market.

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