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Koffmann's has just opened in London

The last time I tasted Pierre Koffmann's gastronomic creations was back in 2004 when La Tante Claire was in the Berkeley Hotel (the site now occupied by Marcus Wareing). The time when he was on Royal Hospital Road was most memorable for me - as I'd been going since the mid 80s. I knew Monsieur Koffmann embarked on a few short term projects since his departure from the Berkeley Hotel but never settled in one place. So when I discovered he'd opened Koffmann's at the Berkeley hotel, I knew I had to pay a visit. 

The deco of Koffmann's was a blend of modern British and French brasserie - laid back to be comfortable, with chocie decorations to remind you of its gastronomic heritage. The menu was relatively short - a la carte and a prix fixe. I could not help but gravitate towards the former - the heritage tomatoes and goat cheese basil sorbet salad was full of flavours. Quite refreshing especially as an appetizer before the main course.


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The Pied de cochon arrived after much anticipation. Monsieur Koffmann's interpretation of the dish had acquired a cult status when it was served up at La Tante Claire. Since then many chefs tried to re-create the dish. So here we were at Koffmann's in 2010 - the texture of the cochon was light even though none of the ingredients were 'light'. The sauce was exactly how I remembered it - velvety rich but with an edge to it to match the cochon. It was heavenly.

 

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Even though there were no bread plates (brasserie) the food was great and no doubt it will become popular in no time.



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