Jean Georges, Shanghai

It's unlike me to eat global rather than local in fascinating cities such as Shanghai, but it is much talked about and it would be interesting to see what's on offer. Jean Georges is in No. 3 The Bund, which is a building devoted to stylish eating and drinking. The Jean Georges restaurant itself is stylish alright - dark marble set against translucent gold ceilings and sand blasted light fittings. The service was competent without being too fussy. The food - inventive without being "fusion" - the Watermelon Gazpacho was a very nice palate cleanser if you have space for three savoury course. The wine list was a standard fare - good selection but not too adventurous (my fellow dinner objected to his lame Ice Wine.)

What was enjoyable? The view of Pudong was great. The cooking was strong and not adulterated by any Chinese influence (let's hope it will last).
What was not enjoyable? Main course fork was smaller than the main course knife. No plate for petits fours. Smoking.

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